Waldhotel Sonnora - a delight in Germany

Describing Waldhotel Sonnora as requiring a special journey may be superfluous. Perched atop a modest hill overlooking the quaint village of Dreis, it is arguably the most secluded among Germany’s ten three-Michelin-starred establishments.

Since assuming leadership of the kitchen in 2017, Chef Clemens Rambichler has successfully maintained the restaurant’s prestigious three-star status, originally awarded in the 2000 edition of the Michelin Guide.

The dining room exudes a formal yet contemporary elegance, with a minimalist aesthetic and pristine presentation. Service was gracious and bilingual, seamlessly alternating between English and German. Tables were meticulously spaced for privacy and adorned with refined Christofle cutlery.

While à la carte options are available, we opted for the tasting menu priced at €335 per person, with the addition of their signature Beef Tartare with N25 Caviar for a supplementary €85. The wine pairing for the eight-course experience totaled €205 of which my partner went for. I decided not to overdo on the drinking part ,though along the way couldn't resist tasting some of the amazing pairing wine options.

Our meal began with a sequence of delectable canapés, 5 of them in total. Each artfully presented and bursting with flavor—an impeccable prelude to the courses that followed. The bread service was not merely a few offerings in a basket but an entire trolley of breads prepared from scratch on the premises. These included a sourdough loaf, a remarkably good farmers bread, pumpkin seed with olive bread, a grain loaf, brioche, fruit and nut bread, baguette, olive bread, and a delicious walnut bread.

The first formal course featured foie gras enhanced with Piedmont hazelnuts, puff pastry, Périgord truffle, and a needle bean–pistachio vinaigrette. The foie gras was luxuriously smooth, its richness perfectly balanced by the crunch of hazelnuts and the bright acidity of the vinaigrette.

A standout among the courses was the signature dish of beef tartare, caviar, and rösti—a composition of remarkable depth, balance, and precision. The beef was impeccably seasoned, and the generous serving of N25 caviar was exceptional in every regard. Yet, it was the rösti that truly captivated: light, crisp, and harmoniously paired with the creamy tartare and crème fraîche, resulting in a dish of elegant complexity.

This was followed by a substantial langoustine tail, grilled and sautéed to perfection, accompanied by zucchini, San Marzano tomatoes, Taggiasca olives, and Greek basil. The langoustine offered a natural sweetness, its delicate texture enhanced by subtle spices. The flavors were bright and refined—an ode to the final notes of autumn.

Next came a dish of blue lobster roasted in beurre noisette, served with peas, melon, mint, and almonds. This proved to be my highlight of the evening. The lobster’s sweetness was beautifully complemented by the crisp peas, savory bacon, and the rich, nutty depth of the beurre noisette sauce. A masterful creation.

The progression continued with a fillet of turbot from Vendée “Romanow,” accompanied by calf’s head, N25 caviar, beetroot, romaine lettuce, and a foamy turbot sauce. The fish was flawlessly prepared—firm yet yielding—and the interplay of textures and flavors, especially with the caviar and sauce, made this a dish to savor.

The savory course featured saddle of venison from the Eifel region in western Germany, paired with braised pepper fig, grilled mushrooms, guanciale, and a gremolata of fig vinegar, walnuts, and foie gras. Though rich in components, the dish was remarkably cohesive. The venison was tender and flavorful, the sauce indulgent yet balanced by the sweetness of fig and the saltiness of guanciale. A sophisticated and satisfying plate.

A cheese trolley followed, offering a curated selection of classic cheeses from Germany, France, Switzerland, and Austria. Served with an assortment of freshly baked breads, those of us who had the cheese selection were very happy with it.

Desserts began with a refreshing composition of iced kiwi and coconut, accented by Thai basil and lemon balm. The flavors were clean and vibrant, with the basil’s aroma delicately infusing each bite. The final dessert featured braised apple infused with winter spices, accompanied by a Calvados-butter caramel sauce and a side of quince-Darjeeling infusion tea—an exquisite conclusion to the meal. To finish, I enjoyed a soothing chamomile tea alongside a refined selection of petit fours, including lemon and raspberry tarts, chocolate praliné, deliciously crunchy Madeleine, popcorn ice-cream (it was divine) and assorted bonbons.

Service throughout the evening was exemplary—attentive yet discreet, delivered by a team that was both warm and highly knowledgeable. The meal showcased exceptional technical finesse and premium ingredients, with each dish offering layered, well-balanced flavors.

The total bill amounted to approximately €1,500 for two, with my partner opting for the wine pairing and myself enjoying a red and a white selection. Overall, a wonderful evening spent in the outskirts of Germany, perhaps to visit again soon in the coming years.